Interviewing designers is always fun but we were particularly excited about our interview with Anciela London designer Jennifer Droguett. Born and raised in Columbia, she moved to Amsterdam to study fashion and then to London to work in the fashion industry. It was not long before she went solo and managed to get a name and earned success in one of the most competitive markets of the fashion world. Her success story from a humble start is truly inspiring. Let’s check it out.
What are your fondest memories growing up with Anciela London designer Jennifer Droguett?
This time of the year I always remember Christmas in Colombia. The entire month of December is a party. The river crossing the city of Medellin is decorated with the biggest and craziest lights. There were parties on the streets, loud music, and the smell of food, I’ll never forget the joy, it didn’t matter what else was happening, Christmas was an escape, the best time. From the candle day (where you light hundreds of little candles outside with all your neighbors to the “novenas” (in anticipation of baby Jesus’ birth) where we got together with our family to pray, sing and eat, for nine nights before Christmas eve.
I also remember my very first bespoke dress for my first communion when I was 9 years old. My mother took me to a seamstress. I picked the fabric and trims and explained to the lady the dress I wanted, I had my measurements taken and without really knowing it I had designed my first dress. Trying it on gave me an amazing feeling when i finished it. This experience really touched me and gave me a whole new understanding of how to make clothes
How your Colombian and Chilean roots have contributed to your brand aesthetics?
When I started Anciela, one of the pillars was always culture, the purpose was to bring new narratives and stories from South America that people might have not heard before. I like the amalgamation of different elements and by exploring my culture through art, music and memories, I’ve come into a journey of self-discovery.
When you grow up in different places you become like a sponge. You get exposed to different cultures and people. It has been key to my work but you’re constantly defining your identity as you don’t feel 100% from one place. That journey has played an important role in Anciela’s eclectic aesthetic.
Who has been the biggest influence on you as a designer?
I deeply admire Rei Kawakubo, and when I learnt about her work, it really opened my mind to the infinite possibilities of Fashion.
How was your experience of leaving your home and moving to Europe? What were the best and most challenging parts of it?
It was tough at the beginning, the cultural shock was significant. The best part though was the opportunity to learn about so many artists I’ve never heard of before. It was amazing to actually get to see iconic pieces of art in museums I never thought I see in real life. It felt like a constant discovery of different influences related to fashion, history and pop culture. However it was really tough to go Fashion school in Amsterdam. None of the tutors were familiar with my culture. People had many assumptions about where you come from and sadly believe in negative stereotypes. Specially because I created from personal cultural references. They always exoticized and analysed from a Eurocentric point of view and actively pushed into a more ‘palatable’ aesthetic.
You were fortunate to work for some very respectable brands. What made you start your own brand?
I guess it was never in my plans to start my own label, with no money, or connections, no famous Fashion school to back me up I never thought I had a chance. I had worked in the industry for about 4 years before starting my own label. Even though I felt really lucky to be in it, I also realized how little influence I had in the places I worked at. Not everyone shared the same sustainable values or cared about the inclusivity of minorities or cultural appropriation.
Only people at the very top had that kind of influence and I was just a number in the workforce, I was in most cases the only POC designer in the team, certainly the only Latina. There was something in me that somehow knew that if I wanted to make a real change I’d have to take the chance and do my own thing, I thought I’d give it 5 years and see what happens. Luckily I could still work as freelance pattern cutter and consultant to support myself financially and keep growing Anciela.
What made you decide to move to London and make it your home? How has the experience been?
I actually had lived in London back in 2008 after I finished secondary school I didn’t really know what to study, Fashion wasn’t really a career choice in Chile so I decide to save some money and took a gap year came to work and learn English in London. That opened up the meaning Fashion for me, I learned there was a whole industry here. I signed up for a short summer course in Pattern Cutting and I loved it. I never dreamed of going to Fashion school in London because of the high fees. Then I applied to Fashion school in Amsterdam, were the English course was more affordable and got my BA from AMFI in 2015.
Short after I applied for internships everywhere and I got into House of Holland here in London where I got my first job a few months later. I love London, how it’s constantly changing and evolving. It’s a place that promotes emerging talent embraces diversity. It’s very competitive though, It keeps you on your toes and constantly challenging yourself because the standards are high. 
Sustainability is very important to you. You don’t just incorporate it into your creative process but you are very active promotor of it too. Can you tell us about this aspect of your life and what future do you see of fashion in terms of sustainability producing real results?
You could say it was how I grew up and the values my family past on. I come from a working class family, we didn’t have much. My parents worked really hard and it was difficult to get by sometimes. I guess you become more appreciative of the simple things. We were toughed not to waste and look after the things we had. Learning about supply chains while studying and working had a big impact on me and specially after the Ranaplaza disaster in Bangladesh 2012. It was a turning point that uncovered the ugly truths of fashion’s value chain.
There was no question about it, I was either going to be part of the solution or part of the problem. Fashion should not harm people or the environment. One of the advantages of having a small business is that you get to make all the decisions. There’s no excuse not to implement sustainable solutions or not be transparent about your processes. Of course it’s easier said than done if the business model doesn’t change at the core and puts people and planet over profits you can’t never achieve real sustainable results. I believe the biggest problem comes down to waste, overproduction and lack of legislation to hold brands accountable. I’m curious how the EU new regulations will play out in the next few years.
What is your creative process for each new collection and for individual pieces that you create?
The process is always different for every collection, inspiration can come from anything really. Often is a mix of different influences, memories and ideas that come when I’m trying to go to sleep, in my dreams or when I go for a walk. Normally there’s a story to every collection that comes from those random elements that later turn into deeper research. Then In practical terms, I start with materials. I check the materials I have available to me in the form of deadstock or recurrent low-impact local natural textiles such as Irish linen and hemp or Tencel fabrics that I acquire once a year. I also incorporated more experimental recycled jacquards developed with recycled British wool yarns from Iinouiio in collaboration with Textile Designer Alice Timmins.
You mentioned that in your fashion school, the cultural references were not well-received. Do you think it’s the same in London as we generally speaking are proud to be multicultural and celebrate it.
I believe it is better now, or at least that’s what I hear from interns and some friends who teach full-time. I have been invited to speak at some Fashion schools in the last few years, so I think is becoming more important for institutions to support their students as well as to educate their staff. With organisations like FACE (Fashion Academics Creating Equality) becoming more prominent. Where it was mentioned at least 40% of the students are international at CSM.
What are some of your biggest accomplishments. That you are very proud of and what are you looking forward to achieve in the near future?
I’m extremely proud of our first show IRL in September at London Fashion Week after 4 years of incredibly hard work, surviving the pandemic, going through a recession and just trying to do things differently from nothing. It was an incredible celebration of everything Anciela stands for culture, sustainability, music and diversity.
I got to invite and create with my Latinx community and showcase the wonderful talented creatives we have in London, among them singer Desta French, composer Eliana Echeverry, Dj Bushbby and many more who have become a creative family. Fashion can really function as a platform for change. That makes me excited for the future and I hope I can keep growing the brand and continue to amplify our voices. I was also super excited about being a guest speaker at Billie Eilish’s Overheated event among incredible sustainable pioneers and activists such as Samata Pattinson, Tori Tsui and Maggie Baird.
Sustainability has become a lot mainstream than it was ever before. But having spent some time in the industry, do you really think things have moved far enough? How much do you believe in the sustainable future of our industry?
I think progress has been made despite all the greenwashing that the mainstream inevitably brings. Certainly, organisations such as Fashion revolution have been key to enabling this positive change. I had the privilege of being part of their cohort for Fashion Open Studio in 2021 and I was mentored by sustainability experts that now I can call friends. But of course, when you read FR Transparency index you realise there’s a long way to go for bigger companies who at the end of the day have a massive impact on the enviroment. I remain hopeful though, I believe in partnerships from big and small players, and I have collaborated with Tencel Lux for example which supports emerging brands.
I also think is imperative to share knowledge and engage in sustainable conversations with all the people within the value chain. A year ago I started to host sustainable events as a counter-movement to Black Friday. Promoting and showing different sustainable initiatives, these events are free and open to everyone from Fashion students to industry professionals to regular consumers. The last one took place on the 29th of November at The Trampery Gallery in Fish Island Village, where we showcased some of our latest pieces featuring recycled British Wool, natural dyes and compostable solutions. I faciloited am upcycling workshop and had a panel with Sustainable Designer Lydia Bolton.
How would you define the Anciela style and who is an ideal Anciela customer?
Anciela is neo-Latin folklore with an experimental tailoring edge. Our customer is confident and eclectic. They appreciate details and need a fun but functional piece of clothing that empowers them.
As a creative, we can often have an inner conflict between what we really want to do and what we think people will like. Do you face the same and if so how do you deal with it?
You’ll never please everyone. I like to think of fashion as food. There are so many flavours to it and so many different tastes. I normally don’t focus too much on what I think people will like. You rather spend time and energy creating garments that tell a story and that I feel passionate about. I wear all of my pieces so I can understand the relationship with the garments very closely.
You really started at the grass-root level and have managed to make Anciela into a success. What practical advice would you give to the new designers who want to do the same?
Thank you! This might be a bit cliche but stay true to yourself. Don’t fall into predetermined narratives of how you think people perceive you. Especially for creatives from minorities, own your story, and embrace what makes you different. This is what makes you unique and will make you stand out from the rest. . Define what it means to you and find the value within instead of relying on external validation. It takes time to develop and figure out who you are so don’t forget to enjoy the journey.
Sustainability has become a lot mainstream than it was ever before. But having spent some time in the industry, do you really think things have moved far enough? How much do you believe in the sustainable future of our industry?
I think progress has been made despite all the greenwashing that the mainstream inevitably brings. Certainly, organisations such as Fashion revolution have been key to enabling this positive change. I had the privilege of being part of their cohort for Fashion Open Studio in 2021. I was mentored by sustainability experts that now I can call friends. But of course, when you read FR Transparency index you realise there’s a long way to go for bigger companies. At the end of the day, they have a massive impact on the environment.
I remain hopeful though, I believe in partnerships from big and small players, and I have collaborated with Tencel Lux for example which supports emerging brands. I also think is imperative to share knowledge and engage in sustainable conversations with all the people within the value chain. A year ago I started to host sustainable events as a counter-movement to Black Friday. Promoting and showing different sustainable initiatives, these events are free and open to everyone from Fashion students to industry professionals to regular consumers. The last one took place on the 29th of November at The Trampery Gallery in Fish Island Village, where we showcased some of our latest pieces featuring recycled British Wool, natural dyes and compostable solutions. I faciloited am upcycling workshop and had a panel with Sustainable Designer Lydia Bolton.
Same goes for the inclusivity. We see a lot more models of color and different sizes on runways. We think in general that representation for minorities and sidelined groups is increasing. From your personal experience, how true is it? Do you feel that we are moving towards the right direction? Is the pace of that journey satisfactory enough in your opinion?
That’s a great point, having a diverse casting doesn’t necessarily mean the company is inclusive. A lot of brands easily fall into tokenism. That was one of the reasons why I started Anciela in the first place. What makes a company inclusive is to give opportunities to minorities in leadership roles, where important decisions are made. I’m proud of having a majority of Latinx and POC crew for every project in my brand. Even at a small scale I can be part of the change and empower my community. It’s all so recent so it’s yet to be seen how the industry will change in the long term. But organizations such as Fashion Minority Report and Outsiders Perspective are addressing this issue. It is a step in the right direction.
You mentioned that in your fashion school, the cultural references were not well-received. Do you think it’s the same in London as we generally speaking are proud to be multicultural and celebrate it.
I believe it is better now. Or at least that’s what I hear from interns and some friends who teach full-time. I have been invited to speak at some Fashion schools in the last few years. I think is becoming more important for institutions to support their students as well as to educate their staff. With organisations like FACE (Fashion Academics Creating Equality) becoming more prominent. Where it was mentioned at least 40% of the students are international at CSM.
You mentioned London being very competitive. As a designer, it’s a lot of work and pressure. How do you avoid burning out and what do you do to take the edge off? Any tips for all those who find themselves in similar situations irrespective of their field of work?
Indeed there’s an immense amount of work that comes with a lot of stress of running a business and being an entrepreneur. We often romanticize the idea of working for yourself but it is more work and it’s more personal. Regardless of the field you’re in, you’re often juggling many jobs and responsibilities. I’m not only the Creative Director and Designer but I’m also the salesperson, finance manager, producer, social media person etc. What works for me is to find a good routine where I find time to disconnect. So I can focus on myself outside of work. I’ve been running for almost 2 years and it has really helped. By chance, I got a spot in the London Marathon in 2022 raising money for the Royal Free Charity. I had volunteered for them over Covid in 2020.
I’ve never run so long in my life. It was a big motivation to go out and force myself to train. After finishing my first marathon I loved it so much that I kept doing it. I’ve completed since, the Madrid marathon, the Snowdonia Half and the Palermo marathon. Looking back I think it’s helped enormously with my energy levels. I drink less I quit smoking and I’m way more productive now. I also definitely recommend finding communities within your field and going to networking events. It can be really helpful to chat with like-minded people. So you can share your concerns and exchange the knowledge and experiences.
What style advice will you give to Defuze readers?
Don’t over-consume, don’t overproduce. Celebrate the intimate relationship between you and your clothing as special items that are an extension of yourself.